Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Internal Skin Care

K, I have been seriously lagging at this blog! However I am finally starting to get some free time on my hands so that I can continue to keep this up! Sorry for all those who read!

Did you know that skin care is just as important on the inside as well as the outside? My work recently hosted the Skin Care Professionals conference and it was broken up into two days. The first was a student day where I had to teach two 1 hour long classes. I decided that one of the classes I taught (which was on internal skin care) needed to be shared!  Luckily I made fantastic notes that are more like a paper than notes really. So it made it pretty easy for me to post it! I hope everyone that reads this gets some good information, and please leave a comment if you have anyquestions or further suggestions on subjects for me to post!

~Emily

We all know that water and exercise are good for the skin, but if that were all it took to have our skin always remain healthy, then athletes would have incredible skin. However we know that is not always the case. Athletes, just like anyone else can still suffer from acne, oily skin, and fine lines and wrinkles.
I want to change the term for this discussion from skin care to healthcare. When we focus on health and the well being of other organs of our body we look at it as health care. Our skin is the largest organ of our body so why shouldn’t we also look at it as health care as well?
In order to get and maintain beautiful skin on the outside we first need to look at it on the inside. According to Dr. Howard Murad’s water principle, it first begins with hydrated cells and strong connective tissues.
Hydrated cells of course come from water. Whether it is from drinking it or from water packed foods (a cucumber is about 85% water) our skin depends on it to fully function well. Dr. Murad states that when our skin is deprived of water it is then going to draw it from other sources. Our skin is not the only organ or system in the body that needs water to function. Each cell in the body is connected together. Therefore if water is lost in the epidermis it will draw its source from somewhere else in the body possibly causing full body dehydration. This full body dehydration (in the long run) can cause other organs to not function properly.
 According to Dr. Murad, if our cells in our skin and our body are already damaged, then just drinking water is not going to help them fully function again. They need to first be repaired. Dr. Murad compares this cellular repair to a tennis ball. He says “Consider a tennis ball for a moment. If you wanted to prevent the air from continuing to escape from it you could take it to a factory that would put a layer of rubber around it. But what if this factory didn’t have any rubber? You would need to provide that too. Once it has the rubber it needs, the factory can take it from there and make any necessary repairs.”
He continues to say “The same is true for your body. It knows how to heal your cells. The problem is that we often don’t get enough of the ingredients in our diets necessary to repair cell walls. Your cell walls are made up of lecithin and lipids, among other things. Because lecithin is found in egg yolk for example, people who do not have high cholesterol should include whole eggs as part of their diet.  It is important to remember to find the right balance for your skin’s needs and to nourish your body appropriately. When the body is at its best the skin is at its best”
So the question is what ingredients do we need in our diets to heal our cell walls and to help our skin function properly? We already know according to Dr. Murad that we need lecithin and lipids, but where do they come from?
Before we move on and talk about where we get these ingredients. I first want to discuss a different topic, the Glycemic index. This plays an important role in the foods we ingest and our skin. But what is the glycemic index?
“The Glycemic Index (GI) is a numerical scale used to indicate how fast and how high a particular food can raise our blood glucose (blood sugar) level. A food with a low GI will typically prompt a moderate rise in blood glucose, while a food with a high GI may cause our blood glucose level to increase above the optimal level.
An awareness of foods' Glycemic Index can help you control your blood sugar levels, and by doing so, may help you prevent heart disease, improve cholesterol levels, prevent insulin resistance and type-2 diabetes, prevent certain cancers, and achieve or maintain a healthy weight. A substantial amount of research suggests a low GI diet provides these significant health benefits. So, it's worth taking a look at the basic principles of a low GI way of eating.” Theworldshealthiestfoods.org
I would also like to add onto that list of benefits improves your skins health.
A normal range of blood glucose levels is between 70-100 milligrams per deciliter. This measurement is taken on a fasting body, so there is no current food in the body to raise those blood glucose levels. Everything that we eat has a glycemic index value that will help determine how much those blood glucose levels will rise.
But why is this important in skin care? Well depending on what we eat a constant rise (spike) and fall of our glycemic index due to refined sugars and starches overtime can cause a process known as glycation. “During glycation, sugar in your bloodstream attaches to your collagen, and your skin becomes harsh and rigid.” This is why some diabetics can have rough textured skin. “Because your skin finds it difficult to spring back to its original place when stretched, wrinkles are more likely to form. When sugar mixes with the protein in your skin, it forms advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and AGE levels rise along with your sugar consumption. These AGEs cause collagen stiffening and damage to your blood vessels.”  Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/309891-sugar-skin-aging/#ixzz1XquXRFLw
When damage occurs in our blood vessels we receive a lack of nutrients, oxygen, and vital ingredients to our skin!  
What about the foods we consume and acne? Doctors claim to have debunked the myth that what we eat cannot cause our skin to break out (greasy foods, chocolate, sugar etc…), however new research has started to disprove that theory.
A study done in 2007 by four dermatologists has determined a link between the sugar content of food and its ability to affect acne. Half of the test subjects were switched to a low glycemic index diet which included higher protein (fish, lean meats), whole grains (complex carbs), and fruits. The other half remained on their normal or “conventional” diet of white breads, sugary cereals, and pastas.
After the 12 weeks the subjects on the controlled low glycemic diet were leaner, healthier, and had lower levels of androgen hormones, which cause our skin to break out (stimulates our sebaceous glands to produce oil). This group also had noticeably less facial acne. This was twice the difference than the group on a high GI diet, or the “conventional” diet.
The research does not show that sugar itself causes the breakouts but rather the effect that blood sugar spikes have on the hormone production within the body. These hormones not only affect acne, but also body weight, fat storage, and the immune system. http://victoria-anisman-reiner.suite101.com/does-sugar-cause-skin-breakouts-a101358
Back to the beginning of our discussion, where do we get the ingredients that are good for our skin? From Healthy foods! Fruits, vegetables, lean proteins (soy, nuts, and meats). Below is a list of some of the top vitamins and foods for the skin. Some are especially helpful for certain skin conditions such as acne or fine lines and wrinkles.
We will first start with:
Vitamin A
Vitamin A is important for your eyes and skin. It keeps your skin healthy, and it aids in the growth and development of new cells, such as skin cells. Another benefit is that it also boosts your immune system because of its antioxidant properties. Males need around 900 micrograms per day while females need only 700 micrograms.
Foods rich in vitamin A are: Mangos, Romaine Lettuce (6 leaves contain more than 100% of your DV of vitamin A)
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
Riboflavin (vitamin B2) is involved in tissue maintenance and repair, and improves skin blemishes caused by rosacea. This vitamin is so important for skin repair that the body uses large amounts after sustaining a burn or wound, or undergoing surgery.Foods rich in vitamin B2: Crimini Mushrooms
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a vital nutrient for healthy skin. It helps your skin grow and repair itself in addition to helping blood vessels, tendons and ligaments do the same. Another benefit is that it helps your wounds heal and aids in forming scar tissue. Vitamin C also helps repair and maintain bones, teeth and cartilage. It acts as an antioxidant, protecting your skin from free radicals such as harmful sun rays or radiation. Smoking cigarettes can deplete your vitamin C levels. Women at least 19 years of age typically require 75 mg of vitamin C per day while men need 90 mg per day.
The top foods rich in Vitamin C are: Acerola Cherries, Leafy greens, broccoli, citrus fruits, guava, red bell peppers, and kiwi.

Rich Sources of Vitamin E

Vitamin E is also an antioxidant, helping to destroy free radicals and prevent them from harming your skin. In addition, vitamin E helps to grow new skin cells by encouraging blood flow throughout your body.

Foods rich in vitamin E are: Almonds, liver, kale, wheat germ, olives, sunflower seeds, asparagus, spinach, eggs, corn, vegetable oils, almonds, yams, avocado, walnuts and sweet potatoes.



Vitamin H
Vitamin H, or biotin, is another vital nutrient for healthy skin. Biotin helps strengthen your skin and hair, according to the University Of Maryland Medical Center. Most healthy adults require about 30 micrograms of biotin on a daily basis. Without the correct amount of biotin, you can experience side effects such as dry, scaly skin or cracking in the corners of your mouth, also known as "cheilitis." Your eyes may even become dry; your tongue may become painfully swollen. Certain medications, such as anticonvulsants or long-term antibiotics, can deplete your biotin levels.
The top foods rich in Vitamin H are: Swiss chard, liver, carrots, romaine lettuce, tomatoes, almonds, raspberries, strawberries, eggs (yolk), and dairy products.
Lecithin
Lecithin is a fatty substance. It is an important constituent of all body tissues. It consists of glycerol, fatty acids, cholin, ethanolamine, inositol and serine. The four latter constituents are working tools used in nerve signal transmission and in tissue regeneration. Lecithin is especially important for the function and regeneration of nerve tissue and the skin. Lecithin also has a cleansing effect upon the skin. It helps the sebaceous gland to produce cleansing secretions. Taking a daily dose of lecithin alone or a product containing lecithin will greatly help to keep the skin young and regenerate the skin from damage.Foods rich in Lecithin are: Soy, Eggs, sunflower seeds, flax seed oil, olive oil, and wheat germ.

Niacin

Niacin, also known as vitamin B-3, is essential for your skin. It is necessary for healthy skin and hair, according to the University Of Maryland Medical Center. Vitamin B-3 also has other important functions such as producing hormones and reducing cholesterol levels. Niacin helps improve your blood circulation, which is crucial when it comes to delivering nutrients to various parts of your body. Without circulation, your blood could not carry oxygen, vitamins or minerals to the rest of your body. When your skin is not properly nourished, it may result in dry, cracking or rough, flaky skin. Healthy females who are at least 19 years of age only require 14 mg per day and men over 19 require 16 mg per day.

Foods rich in Niacin are: Avocados, peanuts


Omega-3 fatty acid
Omega 3 fatty acids maintain the structure and fluidity of the cell membrane making sure nutrients enter the cell and waste products are removed.
Foods rich in omega-3’s are: Flaxseed oil, fish,
Selenium
Selenium is needed for good eyesight; it helps to maintain skin and hair health, and is thought to help treat dandruff. It reduces inflammation and relieves many symptoms of menopause. Selenium helps to activate antioxidant enzymes such as glutathione peroxidase, which neutralizes potentially harmful free radicals, and is therefore important in helping to protect your body from a wide range of diseases. Selenium is needed for healthy muscles, including those in your heart. It also boosts the immune system, increasing your ability to fight infection. It also helps maintain your skin's elasticity. It is also thought to help improve acne.
Foods rich in selenium: Cottage cheese, Brazil nuts, pumpkin seeds, fish and shellfish
Zinc
Zinc is an essential mineral that occurs naturally in the human body. It helps to protect the body by healing wounds, and is also vital for healthy radiant skin.  Zinc deficiencies are often responsible for acne and other problems on the skin such as psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis.  Zinc, an essential trace mineral, is yet another antioxidant and is an important nutrient for protecting your skin from free radicals.
Foods rich in zinc: Oysters, watercress, walnuts, spirulina, red meat and poultry, yogurt, eggs, and milk. Pumpkin seeds are especially high in zinc.


All of these vitamins are excellent for overall health, but especially great for the skin.


Here is a link to an article called the Pretty Skin Diet. I found it facinating! http://www.prevention.com/skindiet/index.html

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Makeup my face pretty!

Lets talk a bit about mineral makeup! I have to say it is AMAZING! It is good for all skin types (especially sensitive), has a variety of shades for everyone, and the application can be anywhere from sheer to heavy coverage all within the same container! Like I said...AMAZING!

My favorite features about mineral makeup are that it is non-comedogenic (meaning it doesn't cause breakouts), antimicrobial (meaning that bacteria cannot grow in it), and biologically inert (meaning that it will not cause an irritant reaction to any skin type). Also even with a heavy coverage it feels weightless on the skin!

Mineral makeup is especially beneficial for Acneic skin conditions. The reason being is that mineral makeup sits on top of the skin and doesn't seep into the follicles (or pores) causing clogging and comodones (black heads). Another beneficial feature is that even though it does sit on top of the skin it still allows oxygen to flow in and out allowing the skin to breath. Oxygen is an extremely important component for combating acne. As soon as the bacteria in acne is deprived of oxygen it starts to thrive and grow causing that breakout that everyone loves to have (insert sarcasm here) to become larger and inflamed! Moral of the story: Oxygen = good!

Now not all mineral makeups are created equal! This is very important to know! All mineral makeups will have what are called fillers. “Filler” by definition is any inert ingredient used to create bulk, texture or lubricity to a finished product after the main ingredients are applied. Not all fillers are bad. Every product needs some kind of filler, if they didn't have them then you would be buying a tablespoon of product. Some fillers are better than others. This is what makes a huge difference between professional products and over the counter. Fillers that you need to avoid when purchasing mineral makeup are:

1. Talc-Talc is a cheap filler and can cause skin irritation on sensitive skin types, especially rosacea.
2. Bismuth-Oxychloride-This is a byproduct of refined lead and copper. It has a pearlecent quality to add shimmer and shine to a product. It is cheap to purchase so it can be added quite frequently. This filler can be especially irritating to those suffering with rosacea and acne.
3.Mica- Mica is not necessarily a bad ingredient. It is used to add shimmer or a pearlesent quality to a product. It all depends on if it is treated or untreated. Untreated mica is less refined and can cause irritation. Especially in rosacea skin types.

Now, just as there are bad fillers to look for there are also good fillers. Ones that aid in healing and being beneficial to the skin!

1.Oryza Sativa (Rice) powder-is used for texture and slip but it also provides a healing benefit and helps to control moisture and shine (from excess oil production)on the skin.
2.Silicone, Dimethicone, Methicone- These are used to create adhesion to the skin (helps them stay on the skin). These are great emollients! They add a silky smooth finish by helping to fill in fine lies and wrinkles and allow the skin to breath as well! An added bonus is this ingredient is also a water repellent!
3.Zinc Oxide & Titanium Dioxide- These are the main minerals to look for in mineral makeup! They help to give color and coverage as well as SPF and add anti-inflammatory benefits as well!

Other ingredients to look for are:

1. Vitamins A,C,and E- These are antioxidants that help to preserve the product as well as be beneficial for your skin.
2. Green tea- another anti-oxidant that also acts as an anti-inflammatory ingredient!
3. Pine bark extract- this is used as a natural preservative in mineral makeups which is preferred over parabens which have been linked to cancer.

Just for your benefit I have compiled a list of my personal favorite mineral makeup foundations!

1.GloMinerals pressed base foundation. I LOVE GLOMINERALS! They are by far my favorite mineral makeup line! All of their products contain vitamins A,C,E, and Green tea! The pressed base foundation gives a light to heavy coverage and leaves a matte finish, which for oily skin types is best. Click here glominerals.com for a link to their website.
2.Amazing Base by Jane Iredale(SPF 20). This is also an incredible foundation! Again it is a light to heavy coverage however this leaves a dewy finish which is ideal for dry to mature skin types. Jane is my next to favorite mineral makeup line. Probably Because I learned makeup application and teach with Jane. click here janeiredale.com for a link
3.Bare Escentuals bareMinerals Matte SPF 15 foundation. bareMinerals isn't necessarily my favorite, but it is more common and easier to purchase than the prior two I already mentioned, so it has made my list. And they just recently came out with a Matte finish which I love. One of my biggest complaints with bareMinerals original formulation is that it makes the skin appear oily so it wasn't a good option for oily skin types. click here bareMinerals.com for a link. I must say though, I LOVE their Buxom Lip glosses, and their mascara!
4.Naked Cosmetics-Mineral Powder Foundation- I like this one because the price is right! Of course I have tried it as well, and it offers great coverage too! And for a newer brand that is not quite as established yet, it is a great product free of fragrance, talc and parabens! click here nakedcosmetics.com for a link. Plus they have super fun, super shimmery shadows! Tons of them!
5. My last recommendation is glominerals sheer tint base. I thought I would add a liquid to the list because not all mineral makeups are powders. Especially with summer just about here, I like to wear a foundation that has a bit more of a fresh look to it. This foundation give a dewy finish which is great for summer, and if you don't like that kind of finish all you need to do is apply a light dusting of the pressed powder over top! click here glominerals.com for the link

So, get crackin and go buy some of the good stuff! Trust me your skin will appreciate it!

Its been a while!

Well life has been a bit crazy, but I'm back! Sorry if there was anyone following my ONE post and wanting me to add more! I am going to try my best to post at least every week! Please leave a comment on any subject you would like some information on and I will be happy to oblige!

Emily

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Welcome!

Hello and welcome to my blog on skin care. My name is Emily. I am a licensed Master Esthetician. I specialize in microdermabrasions and chemical peels. When I am not doing treatments out of my home I am instructing at one of the best skin care schools in Utah (at least I seem to think so!) (click here to view their website)

I decided to start this blog because I am OBSESSED with skin care! I absolutely love teaching it and believe it has made my own knowledge on skin care increase tenfold!
People are always calling me for advise on products, treatments, and general information on their own skin.

So...here goes nothing. Please feel free to leave comments on different things you would like to know about, or questions you may have on your own skin, or conditions. The important thing to remember is that I am not a doctor I am an esthetician (skin care therapist). I cannot diagnose and if there is any condition you are very concerned about please see a dermatologist!

I hope you all enjoy and receive some good information!

Thanks!
Emily

Thanks